I'm losing my backpacking virginity

Good Morning Vietnam, Berlin, Germany

Day one: Wombats, street art, Vietnamese food, happy hour and €2 wine!

Oh the joys of modern travel! We left London at 6.30am and were in our hostel, leaving our backpacks in the luggage store and heading out into the wilderness of the German capital by 11…

Our home for the next 3 nights is the Wombats Hostel, which is conveniently located a minute walk from the U-bahn stop of Rosa De Luxembourg.  At €10 a night for a 6-bed mixed dorm room, it was pretty cheap especially considering the location. Fantastically clean with free linen and towels, top-notch security with the option of putting your passports behind the front desk, a luggage room, guest kitchen and an all you can eat breakfast buffet for a mere €3.70. The WomBar on the top floor is a great place to meet other travellers too and with happy hours from 6pm-8pm and another from 11pm-midnight, its a pretty cheap place to grab a jug of beer and kick back playing pool or admiring the view on the terrace. There’s also a photo automation (more on those later) opposite too which is always fun when stumbling home at 7am. 

The hostel advertises a number of walking tours, but it was the tours run by New Berlin that caught our eye. They are the only tour operator of its kind in Europe that operates on a tips-only basis. We decided to join their alternative walking tour on the first day which meets outside Starbucks in Alexandraplatz at 9am, 11am, 1pm and 4pm. You attend the 3.5hour tour then, at the end, pay what you think it was worth. Sure, you do feel somewhat pressured at the end to match what everyone is paying but, its a perfect system for those on a budget. 

The tour took us around the underground street art world of both west and east Berlin, showing the best of the commissioned building side artworks spread across both sides of the river as well as rebellious works of illegal graffitti artists who have made a name for themselves around the city. Ben, the guide, was also able to give us lots of advice in terms of nights out, bars, places to eat and the do’s and don’t’s of Berlin. (Checklist later.) We paid €10 each as that was the trend set by the other members of our group- and to be honest, what with the length of the tour and the massive variety of the things the very knowledgeable Ben was able to pass on to us, it was a bit of bargain.

On Bens recommendation we headed to Eberswalder Straβe in search of Happy Hour. Take a stroll down Kastaneinalle for a street of bars and cafes and an array of places for food. Cocktails are about €3.90 and they’re strong which is a nice change. 

We dined at Good Morning Vietnam, a busy Vietnamese restaurant opposite our hostel- check out the review in the next post.

Pretty tired from the first days travelling and touring we didn’t quite feel ready to take on the craziness of Berlin after dark so instead headed to The Weinerei: Forum. The unmarked wine bar is a backpackers dream thanks to its classic dining room-esque kitsch decor and it’s unique payment system. Pay €2 for a glass then go on to sample as many of the wines as you like, then sample again, and again, maybe switch colour and sample again… Then, just before leaving, pay what you think you owe! Genius. The wine flows from 8pm-midnight and its worth knowing that free food is on offer from 7pm-9ish if you’re on a true penny-pinching trip. 

Its official: I have lost my backpacking virginity.

I write this on the plane, destination: London, Heathrow.  I don’t think the fact that we are actually returning to the reality of home has actually sunk in.

2 months, 54 days, 4 countries, 10 flights, 1 tattoo, 2 piercings, endless hours on buses, 1 night boat, 1 surprise birthday, 3 manicures, 6 tailored items of clothing, an extra 6kg of weight in my rucksack and an extra 4kgs in Rhiannon’s and there you have it: the most incredible, indescribable, unforgettable trip of a lifetime.

Its official: I have lost my backpacking virginity… And I loved every second.

Plans for next years trips are well underway, I can’t deny it I have totally got the bug. Though I can’t really see how anyone can get away from this place without it. It has truelly been amazing and despite how much I would like to see the boyfriend, catch up with all my friends and see my family, there is no part of me that actually feels ready for home.

Backpacking is the most exciting way of life I could possibly imagine. The biggest decisions you find yourself making is which country it is you will visit next and what mode of transport you will use to get there. Sure, its a selfish way of life, you spent a ridiculous amount of money and you spent your days immersing yourself in culture, history and new friendships. Understand why it’s so addictive?

Thank you everyone who has followed the backpackvirgin on her travels, it has been great hearing feedback from those reading it at home.

Until the next big adventure, so much love.

Laura xxx

Bangkok, Thailand (Round 3)

We checked into the Convenient Resort after jumping on the shuttle bus to the hotel direct from the airport. At 1000bht a night its far pricer than we would pay usually, but for the sheer convienence of its location in relation to the airport and its free shuttle bus to and from the airport- and that includeds the 6.30am trip we require tomorrow morning- its worth every penny.

We spent our final evening in Asia in the most western-free market we could find. In fact, we were the only westerns we saw at the night market located just 5 minutes down the road from our hotel but miles away from any other touristy area. We ate green curry at a communal table covered with all you can eat greens and veg for just 20bht (30p) it was as street food as you can get. Then, with a thousand-odd baht to get rid of before we headed home we both shopped for the final time, grabbing cheap essentials like sunglasses (2 pairs for £3), cheap mac make up (eyeliner and mascara 2 of each for 350bht), a bag for me and another piercing for Rhiannon. The prices were the cheapest we found the entire trip, probably because of how Thai the market was. We loved it, and it made leaving all that bit worse.

Somehow we both managed to pack Bob and Neil reasonably efficiently, without throwing too many things away. It was funny emptying out the entire contents of what has been our lifeline for the entire trip and unearthing various things we thought we had lost, forgot we had both or didnt realise we had kept.

Oh, this place.

Our alarm woke us at 5.30am and we were in the airport ready to check in just an hour later. Despire being unable to check-in in advance on line we were able to get seats together for both legs of the journey which, we hoped, would make the whole process easier.

It was a very long flight. Thank god for the flight entertainment.

My next post will probably be my last. Definately dont want to return home.

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand (round 2)

It’s happened. We’re back in Phi Phi.

Its something we’d talked about ever since we left, how much we’d like to return and finish the trip there. So, last minute and completely spontaneously, we did it. Fed of relentless torrential rain in Cambodia and rumours of more flooding in Kancharaburi (another destination we discussed) we decided to bite the bullet and booked return flights to Phucket. From there we jumped on the boat to Phi Phi and by 5pm we were back at HC anderson and planning to meet Chris Davies and co. Feels like home.

We had three awesome nights with the Eastbourne guys. Sure, the weather was wet and news of a heatwave back home was slightly frustrating but Phi Phi is just as beautiful in the rain. The vibe is just as chilled out and the nights are equally as crazy.

We ate at Papaya again after the awesome meal we had there in August and once again it didnt disappoint. My fried veg with chicken was enough for 3 people to share. It was a veg mountain containing all 5 of my 5 a day and for just 100bht. The cat sat in the fridge as it did before and I must re-enforce my high recommendation of this place. 

Far too much pre drinks and ice tea buckets (buy 1 get 2 free in Irish bar!) resulted in a very ill me, a bar dancing Rhiannon and a broken phone for Michael who decided lone night swimming with your iPhone 4 in your pocket is a really good idea. Great night though. 

Almighty hangover as a result. The weather was ridiculous so we rented a DVD player and watched hangover 2… Followed by Harry potter and then a film on the rooftop at Banana bar. Cotching in the open air on lazy cushions drinking shakes and eating fried rice. Was a pretty great day. We finished at slinkys for a fire show (guys on tightropes doing double spar- very impressive) then we popped to a tattoo shop and I finally got ‘inked’.

I’d got so close in Chiang Mai and decided against it, but I’ve had the last few weeks to think about it, and I was so sure. So, I took the plunge. Thai writing, along the base of my right foot, spelling the names of the five members of the family. I love it. I got it in bamboo too rather than by machine, expecting the worst I gripped Michael’s hand expecting blinding pain… Only to find the whole thing pretty bareable! I think I was almost disappointed. :)

For our final day we visited the viewpoint and took to the beach- the place never fails to astound me. Chris also decided to tattoo, at the same shop I went and rhiannon got her trager pierced. Body modifications all round!

Dinner was at a posh seafood restaurant overlooking the beach- fish fresh of the barbecue. Just can’t beat it.  Pre drinks, Dojos, Slinkys and Stones. A standard night in Phi Phi and what a way to end the trip. Saying bye to the guys was very sat at 5am- it’s a while  til we see them again. 

Boat at 9 tomorrow, away from paradise and back to Bangkok for our final night…. This is all happening so quickly.

Siem Reap, Cambodia (round 2)

 We arrived in Siem Reap at 2am, to find the place almost completely under water. The worst flooding for 30 years and we arrived at the dead of night right in the middle of it.

Our tuc tuc driver seemed surprisingly spritely though and inappropriately enthusiastic about the prospect of driving myself, Rhiannon and 2 large Australian men along with 4 oversized rucksacks through the water (that easily came up to my knees) without flooding the engine of his bike or flipping the tuc tuc…

It was going reasonably well, until the water came flooding in, we hit a pot hole which nearly flipped the vehicle, then, with a squeal of excitement our driver announced the bike was flooded. So, the other three got out and pushed whilst I clung onto the luggage and attempted to remain dry. “That’s travelling” our Aussie companion declared. Oh yes. 

We’d planned to visit the market, shop abit and grab lunch at our favourite restaurant the next day, but it turned out the Market was flooded, along with the road to get to the market, so our options were pretty limited. We checked out the option of a night bus to Bangkok that evening but the only one left at 1am and, due to the conditions, we would have to get to the station ourself so that seemed out of the question. 

Then we looked at eachother and, telepathically, we made the decision to get to Phi Phi. Finish off somewhere we loved, somewhere we know and somewhere we can completely relax before returning home. Chris Davies and the other boys were there too, so we decided it’d be cool to finish with a good group of us, come rain or shine- both of us missed the beach. Sure, it’s not the cheapest option but we got into the frame of mind that this was it. It’s our final 3 days and we’ll spent it how we wish :)  Bring it on xx

Kratie, Cambodia

Rain, rain, rain and a little more rain.

When we arrived (4 hours later than promised) the place was a wash out. The market was flooded, people were rowing through the unreachable town centre. The town was prepping itself for the worst flooding for ten years. The banks of the Mekong were so high, the island we planned to visit was flooded to the point of closure, the roads we planned to cycle were flooded and there is little else to do here. There’s a couple of bars and the stunning river that lines the town… I can see the potential. Just, out of rainy season. 

We made the most of it though.

We grabbed a couple of rooms for $3 each for the night and decided to celebrate Friday. Fridays a pretty big day in Israel as their weekend falls on Friday/Saturday rather than the typical British weekend. So Fridays a big night when the families all get together and make food. So the four of us took to the 4th floor balcony with a bottle of gin and a traditional Israeli dinner knocked up by the two lads out of ingredients Ori grabbed from the market for $2. It was awesome, amazing food, the best company, stunning location and a bottle of Beefeater. A few drinking games later and we were discussing a religion circumnavigating around a carrot, Ori was doing magic and rhiannon and Eyal were doing cartwheels. The most random night but, that’s traveling.

 Due to all of our plans being rained off and despite the long journey the day before, we all decided we needed to move on. The boys to 4000 islands and us back to Siem Reap. Any further north and we would meet any more rain and regardless of how tempting 4000 islands sounds, we didn’t want to pay the visa for the sake of a few days.

Hello more buses.

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

The bus was nice and long. The standard 4hours longer than the travel agents say, but the floods and precarious road conditions offered some kind of excuse this time. We left at 12noon, paying $6 each (more than usual because of a national holiday) and arrived at Sweet Home guesthouse at about 6.30. 

Ori and Eyal were on a later bus than us so we grabbed dinner at a busy guesthouse restaurant over the road- #11 happy guesthouse. The food was amazing. Mine, fish with tomatoes was the best meal I’ve had in ages and rhiannon’s fish with mushrooms was just as good. Sure, the service was slow but the staff were very friendly, prices were reasonable and it was really nice- highly recommend.  Rhiannon stayed out with Eyal whilst I hit the hay- knackered after the bus ride.

We met the boys in the lobby early and grabbed a tuc tuc to S-21, Tuol Seng Genocide museum. The full scale genocide that took place in Cambodia right up until the late 1970’s was devastating and the perfectly preserved s-21 prison and the Choeung Ek killing fields are a shocking insight into the regime enforced by the Khmer rouge. Visiting the two was harder than I could have imagined. Mass graves litter the field- over 800 of them, 80 of which were dug up and excavated when the fields were discovered. 8,895 bodies were retrieved from those graves along, though it is believed almost 17,000 were killed at these fields. One grave contained 450 bodies, another, over 100 naked babies and children. I won’t divulge with you the countless stories of torture and killing because they are inappropriate for this blog, but I learnt so much and have yet more respect for the Cambodian people and their positivity and enthusiasm.It was really tough; there is an eerie silence that rings out across the fields and the minimal tourist signs leave each visitor to their own interpretation and experience. 

That night a group of us went to a restaurant called Shabu Shabu- an all you can eat sushi restaurant opposite the memorial roundabout. For $7 (pricer than any normal meal but my god was it worth it) we sat for 2 hours grabbing dishes of every variety off of the conveyor belts that circle the room and cooking them on our own individual soups. From meat to fish to veg as well as a sushi buffet, a hot food buffet, unlimited drinks and endless ice cream an fruit for dessert. Was amazing. 

A walk along the waterfront was very nice and I could really see the potential Phomn Pehn. Ori and Eyal were keen to move on though, and despite our initial plans to head South, people who has just come from Sihanoukville reported lots of torrential rain so we decided to head to Kratie with them as they planned to stop there before heading to Laos. The guide books really sold the north, promising volcano lakes, dolphins and waterfalls… So we did it. Bus at 9am :)